By Jay Haven, Upper Michigan Trailblazer
The crunch of snow beneath your wheels. The crisp air filling your lungs – gasp! Morning light dances on frosted pines as you carve your way through the heart of Michigan’s winter wonderland. This is fat-tire biking in the Keweenaw Peninsula—a place where adventure and scenery collide in one unforgettable ride.
Jutting boldly into Lake Superior like a sore thumb, the Keweenaw points north and is a snow-lover’s paradise in winter. In addition to its 230+ miles of snowmobile trails you’ll find plenty of options for fat-tire biking too. It can be a method of transport to move around town and can lead you straight from trail to taproom when the ride is over. Many of the fat-tire bike systems are hidden right next to the bigger towns in the Keweenaw close to the Portage Canal. This winter, try a new terrain perfect for riders of all levels and experience the rugged charm of Michigan’s northern Copper Country.
“Every aspect of your ride is different,” said Dave Bayer at Cross Country Sports in Calumet. “Trail character changes wildly in winter. Everything is kind of like a buffed out roller coaster in the woods but grip is at a minimum. You’re kind of sliding and rolling through the woods. It’s another way to get out and play in the snow if you’re already skiing nordic or alpine. It feels a little bit like magic on special days when the snow is hard and perfect.”
You’re getting quality, groomed trails for fat-tire biking in the Keweenaw. The major trail systems are maintained by clubs that take their winter sports seriously. All together, there’s about 40 miles to ride in a 30 minute driving radius. With everything to do inbetween, you could spend several days trying new trails in new towns. Don’t miss the quiet thrills of fat-tire biking in Michigan’s northwoods this winter.
North To South
About 20 minutes north of Houghton lies the small but mighty Village of Calumet. Surrounding its downtown you’ll find two trail systems worth pedaling. On the north side, the Lions Park features a well-groomed loop around Calumet Lake. From US-41, turn left on Pine Street and follow Waterworks past Siskiwit Hall to reach this hidden gem. Stop for a few loops and take a stroll around the park. The snowy lake offers selfie-worthy views just minutes away from a fun downtown with vibrant history.
“You can get snowshoes, hok skis, cross-country skis and fat bikes on it just around the little lake there,” said Bayer. “It’s a pretty scenic route, really accessible. It’s pretty flat there so you’re mostly pedaling through the woods – not terrain.”
Take a break—seriously! Downtown Calumet is home to about eight local eateries and six watering holes, perfect for refueling after a ride. Even if the snow covers the brick-laid streets, the iconic red sandstone buildings will still stand out. These historic structures, many with their original exteriors intact, give the town a vintage movie vibe as you wander through.
The red sandstone facades and towering mine shafts hint at the Keweenaw’s rich copper-mining history. In the 1870s, the Calumet & Hecla Mining Company alone produced half of America’s copper supply. Stop by the Keweenaw National Historical Park to dive deeper into the area’s fascinating mining legacy, a story shared by many mines across the peninsula.
Keepin’ It In Calumet
It’s not much more than a two-mile pedal from the Lions Park and you’re at the more expansive Swedetown Trails. Look for a sign to turn left off US-41 just before the Visit Keweenaw welcome center. Or, if you’re coming south from the Lions Park go right on Swedetown Road and make your way to the chalet. Swedetown is very beginner friendly – much like Calumet Lake. It also features a trail that can fit adaptive equipment – perfect for users with accessibility needs.
“It’s three feet wide, a couple miles long starting at the chalet,” said Bayer. “You can get a four-wheel or three-wheel bicycle through there. That should be a lot better for family riding.”
You’ll find nearly ten miles of fat-tire trails at Swedetown ready to ride. It features a family sledding hill and allows users to ski and snowshoe other trails. You can warm up inside the chalet and you’ll find good parking outside.
If you like the sounds of Swedetown, you should stay at the Expedition Inn. It’s connected to the edge of the trail system so you can bike first thing in the morning as soon as you’re out of bed. Every mini-cabin has a full-bathroom and is a cozy way to stay in the winter. Alternatively, if you’re staying north of the bridge the Calumet AmericInn has a pool, hot tub/sauna and is within walking distance of some good bites to eat.
If you’re hungry in Calumet, look no further than Jen’s Kitchen for hot chili, delicious deli sandwiches and pasties. For a more traditional sit-down meal – go to Carmelita’s or the Michigan House.
Maasto Hiihto & Churning Rapids
Hancock’s bread and butter is its Maasto Hiihto and Churning Rapids trail system. Local rider Bayer says it’s generally quite narrow, twisty, old-school hand-cut singletracks. The Hancock Trails Club grooms over 10 miles of singletrack for fat-tire bikers when the snow falls. It’s got an unreal amount of up and downs for biking in town – with hundreds of feet of varying elevation.
Maasto Hiihto means to cross-country ski in Finnish. Takka Portage just opened on the Portage Canal offering saunas with big views of the Portage Lake Lift Bridge and Houghton’s hillside. For the full Finnish experience – go to the Finnish American Heritage Center and look for bilingual street signs in town.
End your night out in Hancock at La Cantina for authentic Mexican food or stop by the new Keweenaw Coop for clean, organic eats. Gino’s is a hearty option featuring delicious apps, pizzas and pastas with house-made sauce. Maasto Hiihto connects to Hancock and can take you all the way to Houghton along a bike/snowmobile trail. If you need a place to stay in Hancock – try the Magnuson Copper Crown or the Ramada on the waterfront. Both are right near the bike trail and are close to Porvoo Park. The name Porvoo comes from Hancock’s official sister city in Finland.
Houghton’s Tech Trails
One of the biggest networks in the Keweenaw – Michigan Tech University opens its Isle Royale, Superior, Tolkien and River loops to snowbikes in the winter. This pristine nature area is matinained and groomed by the university offering a great experience right in Houghton.
It makes for around 15 miles of trails. It’s totally in the woods and has some technical riding, as well as family-friendly stretches. Know any MTU students? They can get themselves a nice deal on rental equipment to tag along. One of the best parts of the MTU trails is the polished experience and proximity to downtown Houghton.
Houghton knows how to feed a hungry bicyclist. Mozy your way down to the Suomi if it’s not too late in the afternoon for a hot lunch plate or a delicious pasty. Suomi serves a mean Finnish pancake for the breakfast crowd and is known for its quick service. Want to stay in downtown Houghton? Get a continental breakfast at the Hampton Inn or the Quality Inn & Suites right on Shelden Avenue. Houghton’s downtown is just a block away from a beautiful (and very bikeable) waterfront trail. In fact – users could in theory snow-bike all the way from Hancock to Chassell east of Houghton on the same trail.
Keweenaw Beckons Your This Winter
Ready to ride? It’s time to think about which trails you’re hitting first. The snow will start piling up this December, and whether it’s a light dusting or a full-on blizzard, that’s the best part of fat-tire biking—you can always ride. The Keweenaw is the snowiest spot in the U.P., so why not try something new this winter?
“Pick your day and go out with a positive attitude. Some days the snow’s not with you, and some days the snow’s magical,” said Bayer. “Just go out with a positive attitude, and you will probably come out of it with a smile on your face.” Grab a rental bike from Cross Country Sports or bring your own, hit the trails, and see what the Keweenaw has waiting for you this winter. •